West Vermont (S36O) - Day 2

The night was cold and at first I didn't want to leave my sleeping bag. But once I got up, I realized that I was actually warmer when packing up the tent than lying in the bag. This gave me some extra motivation to get going.

Once everything was packed up, I made a quick meal. Some instant oatmeal always works well for me. And since this was the first field test of my alcohol stove, I must say I was quite impressed. This thing is tiny and weighs little, boils a cup of water in about 4 minutes and is completely silent.
 

I left the campsite at 8:30am, which is quite late by my standards, and rode west, towards Poultney. This place used to be a college town but after closing of Green Mountain College earlier this year, it's probably a bit quieter right now.

Green Mountain College, Main Hall

I kept going west and soon I left Vermont, entering New York and the town of Whitehall. I noticed a small number of Shaker homesteads on both sides of Route 18. It's always nice seeing these people on road, riding their horse-drawn wagons. Unlike speeding drivers, they always wave their hands, saying hello. Somehow I feel that the slow way of traveling by bicycle is in some sense compatible with their slow way of life.

Whitehall, NY

From Whitehall, I made my way north to cross a small bridge and enter Vermont again. My goal was to ride several miles along Poultney River by means of Bay Rd. I discovered this place by accident while browsing Google Maps. It turns out that the full length of Bay Rd has a Street View available so you can take a look and see what it looks like.

The first (southern) section of Bay Rd was muddy but didn't look too bad.

And it looks great. Well, actually, it looked great... back in 2012. The one thing I didn't realize soon enough was that Street View was dated 2012 and apparently things have changed quite a bit in the next 7 years. The slow-moving Poultney River is still there, same with thousands of birds and widespread wetlands. What's gone though, is road's sandy surface, now replaced by mud and hundreds of flooded craters.

But the further north I went, the worse it got, being completely flooded, edge-to-edge, in most places.

Essentially, the entire length of Bay Rd, running alongside the river, is a wet mud-bath. There are very few and very short rideable sections. Most of the road is either flooded edge-to-edge or extremely muddy. Not wanting to risk being stuck in the middle of a giant puddle, I decided against riding through the middle of all of it. I had to go around, but the only way around was through the bushes on either side of the road. Unfortunately, these bushes carry thousands of burs - the type of seeds that have hooks. Very quickly my socks, shorts and shirt were completely covered in burs. Not fun!

After a nearly 2-hour-long struggle, I finally go to the end of this mess and the intersection with Cogman Rd. From there, things were much better.

Next, I basically rode straight north, staying as close to Lake Champlain as possible. Things got a bit tricky once Stony Pond Rd turned into Singing Cedars Rd. Technically, these two are not connected and there is a "dead end" sign, warning you that you won't be able to drive through. But being on the bike I learned that "dead ends" can often be ignored.

And I was right. Once I ran out of the "regular" unpaved road, I found a narrow maintenance road through the forest, running under the old power line. It was in a surprisingly decent shape and let me connect with Singing Cedars Rd with ease.

At that point I realized that my breakfast was a long time ago and all that walking through bushes and mud made me very hungry. Fortunately, Buxton's Store in Orwell came to the rescue. Their sandwiches are yummy, although I had to wait much longer for one to be made for me, than it took me to actually eat it.

International Paper Company, as seen across the lake.

Things were going well. My belly was full, my bike was rolling well, shedding off dry mud at higher speed. Views over Lake Champlain and Vermont countryside were spectacular.

A good portion of my route turned out to run where Champlain Bikeway is, but don't be fooled. There is no dedicated bike path there - just a few signs marking it. You still have to share roads with cars.

 

 Lake Champlain Bridge to NY State.

 

As I mentioned earlier, I started my ride a bit late in the day for my standards, which combined with shorter days in late October meant I didn't have much available daylight left. I kept pedaling but decided to skip some places I originally planned on visiting, namely Fort Crown Point, just across the bridge in New York and the D.A.R. State Park nearby.

I arrived at my car just at sunset, around 6:15pm. From there, I still had a long, 3.5hrs drive back to Boston.

The whole mini tour was a great experience as for the first time I had a chance to try something like that late in the season. If only there was more daylight left in the day, you could keep going further and further.

West Vermont (S36O) - Day 1

After my last quick tour through New Hampshire I wanted to rest a little bit from constant climbing and go somewhere flat. So I picked Vermont - the state that is nearly completely covered by hills and mountains. Right...

Actually, I planned my trip through the flattest part of Vermont - the western parts of Addison and Rutland counties, which is a place where Green Mountains end and a wide valley of Poultney River and Lake Champlain begins. Still, as it turned out, some hills were unavoidable but it was nothing, compared to what you would normally find in the other parts of the state.

 

I started my tour at a Park & Ride in Waltham, just south of Vergennes, VT. It was a pretty long drive north from Boston so I started riding quite late, at 11:45am. The day was cloudy and I was a bit worried it would rain a lot, but the little rain I got on the way, stopped before I even got to Waltham.

 

It all started at Route 66. Not that famous one, though...

 

The weather in late October can be somewhat unpredictable, so that adds more complexity to planning of any longer bicycle ride. Despite a cloudy day, it wasn't actually that cold (53F or 12C) but I quickly found out that I either overheat on climbs or get cold from wind chill on descents. Seems like no matter what you do, it's never right.

 

I think I matched the environment quite well.

I sort of regretted that I didn't have time to make this ride happen a bit earlier in the season. Clearly, foliage was past its peak colors but there were still plenty of red, yellow and orange hues around.

Because it was only a quick, sub-36hrs trip, I didn't need to pack much, yet at the same time, colder weather required me to bring some extra clothes. I managed to fit everything in the handlebar bag and two fork-leg-mounted sacks. Also, for the first time, I packed a mini cooking set with alcohol stove. I figured that since the night is going to be cold, it would be nice to make a simple hot breakfast next morning.

I kept rolling through the countryside, passing by numerous farms on the way, counting different types of cows I encountered and photographing grain silos.

Farms. Farms everywhere...

 

Twin towers of Vermont.

Finally, I arrived in East Poultney, quickly resupplied at the local store and headed to Analog Cycles, where I arranged earlier to stay for the night. I covered 60mi (95km) on day 1, which normally wouldn't be that much, but since I started late, I arrived at my campsite after sunset. Considering shorter days in late October, I think the next time I would rather pick a shorter route and start from a Park & Ride location closer to my final destination.

General Store, East Poultney, VT.

I admit, I have never camped out that late in the season. I expected air temperature to drop rapidly at night so I had to apply all common sense to survive. That included:

1. putting all clothes on, including the woolen hat,
2. placing all leftover clothes inside the sleeping bag to keep them warm through the night,
3. doing the same with phone and all batteries to protect them from cold.

It worked. I survived and all electronics made it as well, even though temperature at 7am was only 30F (-1C). However, the next time I would seriously have to consider a better sleeping bag. The one I had was technically rated to 35F but let's just say it was barely adequate at 30F. Certainly, I wasn't cozy warm during the morning hours.

Continue to Day 2.

Summer time in the fall - Upper Charles River Trail and Milford/Hopkinton area

What is your favorite month of the year and why is it October?

Living in Boston, I quickly learned to appreciate the two months in the year when it's absolutely mandatory to spend as much time outdoors as possible. In fact, I even question why would anyone take time off in July, when it's clearly better to stay in the climate-controlled office. It's not July but September and October that are the ones to enjoy.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with weather in Boston (or on East Coast in general), it typically looks like this:

• January, February - freezing down to -2F (-20C) or lower, lots of snow
• March - freezing at night/morning, melting in the day = ice everywhere
• April, May - warmer but tons of pollen in the air
• June, July - hot and very humid, frequent heavy thunderstorms
• August - still too hot and humid
• September, October - warm, dry, little rain, just perfect
• November, December - chilly and rainy, gets dark quickly

To use this rare, good weather, I managed to sneak out last Sunday on a ride around Milton/Hopkinton area. I started in Ashland and quickly merged with the Upper Charles River Rail Trail in Holliston, which I have never visited before. The trail is nice but it's so perfectly graded that it could be easily crossed on a road bike with skinny tires. At least it's unpaved, so it has that "close-to-nature" feeling.

 

The trail ended in Milford where I soon entered town forest, which turned out to be the test ground for local MTB riders. I did a wide loop around this area and soon crossed I-495 to find my way to the Peppercorn Hill Conservation Area.

The next section was running under a high-voltage power line. These places are typically pretty rough to ride. Sometimes you may find a truck load of chunky gravel or a very overgrown footpath. The trail I found was clearly used by ATVs and had deep tire tracks cut into the mud. These tracks were well covered with tall grass so I often had no idea where my front wheel was going. I had to proceed slowly, not wanting to fly over the bars.

On top of that I discovered multiple warning signs to watch for bees, wasps or hornets...

... and moments later I discovered a large hive, size of a watermelon.

Soon enough, I reached Upton State Forest and then Whitehall Reservoir. There is narrow path around the reservoir, which I thought would be a good unpaved trail to ride. Unfortunately, it turned out to be full of roots and generally inaccessible for bicycles.

From there I had to make my way to Hopkinton State Park and Ashland State Park. Both are nice, but more appropriate for beachgoers or Sunday grill parties than bike riding.

That's about it. How was your Sunday?