Around Ipswich

Summer is officially here. Around Boston, this means three things: hot weather, humid air and frequent thunderstorms. Fortunately, this wasn't the case last weekend. While it was very warm, the sticky, humid air mass hasn't arrived yet and we could really enjoy the time spent outside.

On Sunday morning I decided to visit (and revisit) some places at the shore. I usually take my bike somewhere into the forest, as this is a place where I can easily find some unpaved roads and trails. But this time my route took me all around the town of Ipswich, to the beach and back.

I left early, around 6:30am and at that time air was still cool and pleasant. While it may not be easy to wake up at dawn, it's sometimes the only way to ride in the summer and stay cool. Once we get the usual July humidity here, already around 9am is too hot to ride.

I parked in Topsfield and took Topsfield Linear Common - a rail trail, south. The trail isn't particularly exciting - just an unpaved path with forest on both sides. But soon I reached the northern end of Grand Wenham Canal and that turned out to be a really nice place to explore. There is a small bridge that you can take to the other side but that soon turned out to be a mistake. The path along the eastern side of the canal is flooded in places. Only the western side is passable.

 The canal was a home of geese and ducks - including some inflatable ones:

Once I reached the end of the canal, I entered Wenham and continued along Route 1A towards the shore. At this point I realized how different this route is from what I'm typically used to. Usually, I end up on some rough and rocky trails, often riding through several steep hills. These things definitely slow me down a lot. This time however, I was flying with an average speed of over 15mph (25km/h), despite riding on a (relatively) heavy bike. All thanks to flat (see the elevation profile) and well-paved road. I guess I forgot what a dramatic difference this makes.

All this means that by 8am I was already at the shore. Here is when I realized that access to Crane Beach isn't free, it costs $30 per car. I decided to ignore that and the gate to my right and try an unmarked gravel road going southeast.

This was one the maintenance road I think, but it ended at a small pier where I had a chance to pause for a minute.

Next, I went back to the Castle Hill Estate. I visited this place earlier with my family so I didn't spend much time at the castle. Instead, I rode my bike to the beach. Fatbike mode on!

Well, alright. That didn't exactly work well. My bike isn't suitable to ride on a deep, loose sand so I didn't really ride on the beach. But the place was still nice - quiet, peaceful, with morning sun illuminating Ipswich Bay.

Since it was still early in the morning, I figured I could ride all the way to Little Neck - a small village on the other side of Ipswich River. To do that, I had to ride back to Ipswich first. I really hated taking the main road (Argilla Rd) so I opted for a smaller one that looked good on the map. Unfortunately, that road (Labor In Vain Rd) turned out to be private (and a part of a gated community). If you ride your bike there do it at your own risk and consider yourself warned.

The ride to Great Neck and Little Neck was simple enough - just follow the main road and stay close to the shore. Both places are your typical New England coastline villages. I think people live there mainly to be on the beach the whole time. At the same time, since both places rise above the sea level quite a bit, there are some nice views from the road overlooking Ipswich Bay.

I got back to Ipswich, which was by now in a full-swing Sunday breakfast more, with many of it's citizens and visitors crowding the downtown. I didn't stop though, but continued north. There, at the intersection of Rt133 and Mile Ln is Clam Box of Ipswich - probably the best seafood place on the North Shore. But since it was way too early for lunch, I was soon on my way.

Next, I entered Willowdale State Forest, which has a nice network of unpaved trails - pretty fun to ride as they aren't too rough so you can pick up some speed. That is - if you don't run into people horseback, as I did.

My plan was to slowly make my way back but cut across the trails in Ipswich River Wildlife Refuge. Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately - for the sake of wildlife), I found out that this entire area is closed to bicycles, so I had no choice but to go around and take Perkins Row Rd instead.

After 4.5hrs on the road, I was back at my car in Topsfield. Now I wonder what other places nearby at the shore are here that I haven't visited yet.

Oh, and I'm currently testing my new handlebar bag - Teardrop by BXB (Bags By Bird). It doesn't need a rack or basket support, fits my whole camera gear and is made in USA. But more on that later.

Analog's 4x4 Ride - bikes, beer and a good company

I ride alone. I always ride alone. Maybe it's because I don't know many people around my area who would be interested in the type of rides I usually do. But maybe it's just because when I'm on my bike I want to disconnect from everything and everyone.

Then, earlier this year when Analog Cycles announced their first organized off-road bike ride through some remote places in Vermont, something clicked and I got a feeling that I should give it a try. I registered with no hesitation and started impatiently waiting for the day to come.

To be honest, the only thing I was a bit worried or even afraid of was the weather. Don't get me wrong, I cycled in all types of weather. It's just some weather is better than other and, to be fair, swimming in mud, axle-deep, or riding in pouring rain, is not exactly my type of fun. Sure, it could be "fun" for some time but you probably won't truly enjoy 8 hours and 40 miles of it, would you?

But, the weather was perfect. Well..., almost. It was maybe too sunny for my taste. Nevertheless, that's not something to complain about.

So who and what is Analog Cycles? It's a tiny bike shop well-hidden deep in forest in the village of East Poultney, VT - not too far from NY state border. The owners, James and Candice, are from the area but spent years living in different places in U.S. before returning to their roots. As they admitted, there aren't enough locals who would be interested in custom-made off-road bikes, boutique brands and hand-made things. They exist primarily thanks to the Internet. In fact, they ship pretty much worldwide.

The day of the ride started really early for me. I had to wake up at 5am, then drive 3.5hrs across MA, NH and VT to reach East Poultney. When I arrived, well before the scheduled start time, the grounds around the shop were filled with bikes scattered all around and people getting ready and making their morning coffee. Many folks came the night before and stayed over.

Many bikes arrived clean, only to soon get dirty. Some bikes were already dirty, since why clean them if they get dirty again?

We finally set off at 10am. We picked up a good tempo, starting with an easy roll on some flat, wide gravel roads. The first climb came at about 5 mile mark, at which point the whole group stretched out quite a bit. I guess everyone found own pace because pretty soon we were riding in at least two separate groups - one leading in the front and one partying in the back.

We made a quick stop at the top of the hill where Pond Hill Ranch is located, planning on waiting for the second group. Since they were nowhere to be found, we decided to be good friends and leave them behind. The next section ahead was a fast downhill towards Route 4A.

The second group finally caught up with us at the next quick rest stop on Birdseye Rd. We continued together, this time through a very muddy ATV road that I can't even find on the map. Some of us (myself included), decided to stay cautious and don't take any chances. Like I said earlier, memories from the past year were still pretty fresh and this time I certainly wasn't planing on swimming in mud.

Others, however, were much more brave and aimed for the middle of the largest puddle. 

After the next few miles, we finally got to our lunch spot, which turned out to be a large gravel parking lot. We quickly figured out that the shade provided by a nearby large tree is a much more appropriate place to rest. Food and beer was out to be consumed. Bikes were swapped to be tested. Conversations were going and experiences shared.

With restored energy reserves we continued on. More muddy mess awaited, another long and very strenuous climb and finally a very rocky downhill ride. After about 7 hours of riding (including all stops), we arrived at the "swimming hole", ending the ride by cooling off in Poultney River.

The day was slowly coming to an end and it was time to head back to the shop, set up a campfire, pull out all food provisions and start on that keg of a local brew. Some locals decided to head back home but many of us stayed overnight. Analog Cycles provides a ground to camp for free, as long as you ask and behave nicely.

I was actually pretty tired after this eventful day, not from the distance, since 63km (39mi) isn't really challenging, but more from the constant beating by sun. Eventually, I headed over to my tent but I didn't sleep too well. It turned out that I should've packed ear plugs. This way those damn birds wouldn't have woken me up at 4:30am when sun started rising and they decided to give a concert.

I got up at 5am, packed quietly and drove back home. The "Camp Analog Cycles" was empty and silent. Everyone was still sleeping so I didn't have a chance to say goodbye, but I hope to see those people the next year.

Thank you Candice and James for organizing the event! It was a great fun and I certainly would like to see you again soon.

SNETT

Since I happen to have a bike that is better suited for roads not covered with asphalt, I've been searching for more such places to ride around Boston Metro area. So far, in search of the unpaved, I mostly visited locations north and west of Boston. The last weekend I decided to change that and try a trail in the south - the SNETT.

SNETT stands for the Southern New England Trunkline Trail. It's a path built in place of a former railroad, running from Blackstone, MA to Thompson, CT. Because I didn't want to just ride the same trail there and back, I decided to create a loop that would take me through three states: MA, CT and RI.

I started in Blackstone, where I left my car. Then I followed the paved Blackstone River Greenway to the end where it becomes unpaved and turns into SNETT. Actually, it's a bit difficult to navigate around the way these two trails merge. There is a section running alongside Rt146 - a busy highway, but eventually I was able to locate a path entering forest.

Unfortunately, this is where likely the worst part of the whole route was. We had a severe thunderstorm the night before and trails were still wet. The first section of SNETT was flooded and extremely muddy. I was moving forward very slowly, often walking on the trail's shoulder, trying to figure out how deep these puddles really were. I think memories from the previous year were still fresh, when I was going through Catamount State Forest and decided to just ride through the mud, only to spend the next half an hour pouring mud and water out of my shoes and trying to make myself somewhat presentable.

Fortunately, the rest of SNETT was in a better shape and I could pick up some speed. Just like many rail trails around, SNETT is flat, straight and... somewhat boring. In fact my initial impressions were not great and I thought that for someone who lives in that area, this trail would certainly be useful, but I wouldn't recommend to plan a whole day trip there just to ride on SNETT. Actually, the Rockingham Recreational Trail I visited not too long ago seemed much more interesting.

The good thing is that this changes once we get closer to Douglas State Forest. Here's where we find a more variety in scenery - from ponds, lakes, streams to wetlands and wildlife surrounding the trail.

In fact, I would say that if you happen to be in the area, it's likely worth parking in either Douglas, MA or East Thompson, CT and checking out that section of SNETT.

After spending the first 30km (18mi) on SNETT, I decided to head back but riding on main roads certainly isn't my kind of fun. I went south, into Rhode Island, to cross Buck Hill Management Area and find my way back east.

The path across was an ATV trail - rocky and sandy in places, but accessible by a mountain bike. From there I followed local roads to Black Hut State Management Area, which had trails of essentially the same kind - more rocks, more sand and more roots. And some fallen trees once a while. Both places looked pretty abandoned. It didn't look like they get many visitors in a year.

After 4hrs and 40min. I was back at my car in Blackstone. It turned out, I was there in likely the last possible moment to leave the town. It was Memorial Day and several blocks around Main St were already blocked off by police for the incoming parade. Had I made my ride any longer, I might've been stuck in Blackstone and unable to leave until the end of parade.

Boxford to Georgetown

The long May weekend is behind us. Weather was pretty decent, which means at least it wasn't raining, but unfortunately, it was way too sunny for may taste. I explained previously why cloudy and cool weather is best for bike riding. This wasn't the case the last weekend.

Still, I couldn't just sit at home the whole time. I decided to ride a quick loop around Boxford and Georgetown, starting in North Andover at Harold Parker State Forest (HPSF). If you live in this area, you know this place well, I'm sure. It's a very popular spot for mountain bikers, with plenty of rough forest trails to explore.

I visited HPSF multiple times before, but I've never tried to drive there. It's relatively close to my house so usually I just bike there directly. This time however, since I wanted to go further north, in order to save time I drove to the park and decided to leave my car there. I was surprised that it costs $5 for a day pass to park in HPSF. Either it's a new thing there, or I completely missed that before. Anyway, it's not a big deal. I'll gladly pay a fee, if it helps protecting the few remaining large forested areas in our suburbs.

I followed the main road towards Stearns Pond, passing several mountain bikers on the way. My goal was to make my way further north towards Boxford.

I was positively surprised by Boxford State Forest. It's smaller than HPSF but at the same time it's less crowded. There is a network of trails running through the forest and most of them are relatively rocky. In general, a bike with wide tires is preferred. I rolled on 2.2" wide Maxxis tires but if you come here with your gravel bike, you will likely do just fine.

A good chunk of my route followed the Bay Circuit Trail. This is a hiking trail that runs all around the Boston Metro area from north to south. The trail is quite long and I was thinking about riding the full length of it at some point. This would require camping somewhere on the way but such options are relatively limited in Boston's suburbs. I need to figure out whether that's actually doable.

The last larger forest I visited on my way was Georgetown-Rowley State Forest. It's much more remote than the first two, so I didn't see anyone when riding through it. Seemed like I pretty much had the whole forest for myself.

On my way back I used a shortcut via Brook Street in North Andover. This road is closed for cars as it's frequently flooded by wetlands on both sides. As a result, it's quiet here and wildlife can flourish. I ran into a heron sitting in the middle of the road. Looks like I need to remember to bring my telephoto lens the next time. I could only get so close to the heron before he got scared and flew away.

The real fun however, starts when you get to the Mary French Reservation just off Korinthian Way in Andover. There is a single trail running across those wetlands and is all on a boardwalk - one of the longest and narrowest boardwalks I know around Boston. It continues in a tall grass across the open area and then into the forest. It can certainly be crossed by bike as long as you have a somewhat decent sense of balance.

It took me 3.5 hrs to complete this 30-mi route and I'm glad there are still places like these around Boston. In this highly urbanized area, it's difficult to find nice places to ride, away from crowds, away from cars and somewhere in nature.

Exploring New Hampshire - Rockingham Rec Trail

I think this rain will never end. Not counting a few breaks, it's been raining roughly since early April. For some of you it may not matter, but I somehow never really submitted to cycling in rain. I just don't find it enjoyable in any way.
 

Nevertheless, last Sunday I really wanted to spend a day outside and explore some places in southern New Hampshire. Of course, the moment I left my house it started raining heavily. I quickly checked the forecast for Manchester, NH and it showed a heavy overcast but no rain. I decided to chance it.
 

Rain followed me all the way to New Hampshire border but then, when I approached Merrimack, a miracle happened - it stopped raining and soon I noticed that highway was completely dry - a good sign that heavy rains on that day must have been only happening in Massachusetts.

I left my car at Rt 101 and quickly hopped on the bike. My plan was to explore the full length of Rockingham Recreational Trail from Auburn to Newfields, then ride back through Pawtuckaway State Park and Bear Brook State Park. It's a pretty long loop, about 70mi (113km), so I anticipated it would take me almost the whole day.

I bet the trail is quite popular on warm, summer weekends but since the day was cool and cloudy, I didn't see many people that day. In fact, the whole day turned out to be perfect for bike riding but not so great for picture taking. Heavy overcast made the sky white or grey in all pictures. On the other hand though, air temperature was only 50-60F (10-15C) and that's what I like on long rides. I don't need to worry about overheating, sunburns and I don't get tired too quickly.

The Rockingham Recreational Trail was built in place of a former railroad and as such, is very flat so you won't find any steep grades there. But there are a few underpasses where the trail is crossing major roads. These were built in form of narrow tunnels. Interestingly, they are also very, very low. So low, that in places one needs to be very careful not to hit head when sitting on bike.

A large portion of trail runs through and alongside wetlands. Swamps and marshes surround it on all sides. I actually like it a lot since it adds some variety to otherwise straight and flat road.

In some places, the trail crosses small rivers and streams using rusty railroad bridges.

The closer I was getting to Newfields in the east, the more remote the trail was getting. I was meeting fewer and fewer people on the road and eventually, I reached a defunct railroad depot and a small parking lot - the eastern terminal of Rockingham Rec Trail.

 

After rolling on gravel for the last 25mi (40km), it was time to merge now with a paved road and make my way back west. I quickly realized how spoiled I got riding on a rail trail. The road ahead was maybe paved, but it was also hilly and required some climbing. This is one thing you can always be sure when you ride on a rail trail - it will be very flat, since trains that used it in the past would have never made it up a steep grade.

Another 15mi later, I finally entered Pawtuckaway State Park and road became unpaved again. In fact, it quickly got very rough and rocky and I was glad my bike had wide tires to handle that.

Pawtuckaway Park is certainly a popular place. Despite less-than-perfect weather, the park was full of visitors and I had to share trails with hikers and roads with cars.

The situation was completely different when I got to Bear Brook State Park. This place was empty. I didn't find anyone hiking the trails and I had Podunk Rd all for myself.

It took me about 7.5 hrs to ride the full length of this route, including all stops. When I finished, I was very hungry.

 

I managed to record the ride this time and not run out of phone battery (The trick is to download the map for offline use and put cell phone in airplane mode for the whole time). I was surprised later to find out that GPS measured my top speed at 72km/h (45mph), but that's quite possible, given some very long and steep hills around Nottingham and Deerfield.

When I got back to Massachusetts, it was still raining. I guess this means I picked a good day to spend it across the state border. And I deserved a beer...